Bordeaux, far beyond wine

Bordeaux is on my list of places to go because of my passion for wine. However, I leave here loaded with other memories. Located in the southwest of France, in the Aquitaine region, Bordeaux has more than 300 listed monuments and the entire city is a UNESCO world heritage site.

In the so-called new Paris, I stayed right next to the botanical garden, on the right bank of the River Garrone and, to reach the historic centre, I crossed the Pierre de Tram bridge. As I crossed the bridge, in an almost cinematic setting, I contemplated the Place de la Bourse, located in front of the largest water mirror in the world. The Place de la Bourse has a symmetrical architecture and its reflection on the water mirror is of tremendous perfectionism, even on cloudy days.

The Museum of Wine is a kind of Disneyland impeccably combined with a scientific laboratory.

Taking a stroll along the Garrone River is almost a must when visiting Bordeaux.

At lunchtime, the choice was Les Halles de Bacalan — a market with a wide variety of stalls selling local products such as fruits, vegetables, meats and also restaurants. While a torrential rain was falling outside, I wandered through the aisles of the market and discovered the local cuisine, with the aromas of bread coming out of the oven.

After the gastronomic experience, I headed towards the “Cité du Vin” — City of Wine, which is opposite the market. When looking at the building, admiration is inevitable. It has a modern, striking and unique architecture, inspired by the movement of wine when filling the glass. In the more than 13,000 m² that make up the Museum, my immersion in the history and civilization of wine, in the 4 corners of the world, is done through my 5 senses (sight, hearing, touch, smell and taste), combined with digital art. You could say that this is a kind of Disneyland impeccably combined with a scientific laboratory for oenophiles.

The Place de la Bourse has a symmetrical architecture and its reflection on the water mirror is of tremendous perfectionism.

Because those who come to the Museum also want to taste wine, the tasting is one of the memorable moments of the visit. In addition to the variety of wines from almost every winery in the world, the room has a privileged view of the Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge — the longest vertical-rising drawbridge in Europe.

Taking a stroll along the Garrone River is almost a must when visiting Bordeaux. Both for the history and for the simple pleasure of navigating its waters and observing the city and its people from another angle. There are several options to do this tour. It can be by private cruises or catamarans that are part of the public transport network. My choice is the catamaran which takes 40 minutes to make the trip from one end to the other.

Rain in Bordeaux is frequent, but nothing that would stop me from making a pilgrimage to some museums and historical monuments. It is impossible to visit more than 300 monuments in 24 hours, so I got lost in the streets, dove through its medieval doors, churches, squares and elegant architecture buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. I followed the walk towards the Museum of Fine Arts, in search of a sample of European art, from the renaissance to the modern period, and at every corner I found a new surprise.

At the time of departure, the sky finally opens up and a beautiful rainbow is created over the Garrone River. I take the opportunity to enjoy a canelé (a typical sweet from the region). At this moment, I think to myself, with its particularities and charm, Bordeaux is Bordeaux and not the “new Paris”.

▶ How to go

You can fly direct from Maputo to Lisbon and then take a connecting flight to Bordeaux. Or, if you prefer, fly from Johannesburg to Paris and then connect by flight, car or train. I suggest you go by train or car to enjoy the wineries and other landscapes.

▶ Where to stay

You can stay in one of the cheaper Ibis hotels located in different parts of the city. Other accommodation options are the Radson Blu hotels and the Seeko’o Hôtel Design Bordeaux, which are very close to the city of wine and have public transport right outside the door.

▶ Where to eat

Bordeaux has several local restaurants with delicious food, but my recommendation is to spend a meal at Les Halles de Bacalan and another in restaurants by the river. Not forgetting to order a glass of Bordeaux wine to go with it.  Some bars offer wine tasting sessions, so do your research and you won’t regret it.

▶ What to do

If you like to cycle, taking a bike tour is a good idea. Taking a boat trip is also essential. The tour costs less than €2 if you take the public catamaran. Booking a wine tasting class is also highly recommended.  Stop at a pastry shop to enjoy the sweet canelé.

▶ What to watch out for

Due to the rain, it is always recommended to know the weather conditions before going. The best time to visit is from April to September.

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Issue 72 Mar/Apr | Download.