Put on your boots, grab your hat and fill up your water flask. Get ready, because you have more than 700 kilometers of marked trails to choose from, with the possibility of staying overnight in small charming hotels, bathing in the best beaches in Europe, tasting a rich and varied gastronomy, and enjoying the fruit of centuries-old vineyards.
The so-called “Rota Vicentina”, in the Portuguese region of Alentejo, offers a network of walking or cycling paths, alternating between the coast and the countryside, with about 200 companies from different industries associated with this initiative, which aims to promote the development of the region. Launched in 2013 as a walking route in the south- west of Portugal, the network now has 750 km of walking trails, organized in three categories: historic path, fishermen’s trail and circular paths. Additionally, it has more than 1,000 km of bicycle circuits. Among the 24 circular paths available, our choice falls on the Almograve dunes, which stretches over 8.5 km. After a tasty lunch consisting of treats from the sea, we prepare for a three-hour walk divided between a sand trail along the coast and an inland path through agricultural fields.
The degree of difficulty is low and along the way there are several points indicating the direction to follow – the margin of error is minimal. The most challenging part is the crossing of a stream that flows into the beach, making the trail momentarily no longer visible.
We started the walk on a wooden walkway at Almograve beach. The landscape is beautiful, especially in this coastal part: on one side, sand dunes covered with undergrowth; on the other, wild cliffs lashed by the waves of the Atlantic. After four kilometers in the sun, we turn inland where a surprising path awaits us in the middle of a cane field, with a refreshing shadow where we just want to stop.
Between a few chats and moments of introspection, it occurs to us that this is an interesting example of collaboration between the public and private sectors. To implement the “Rota Vicentina”, a private, non-profit association was established, bringing together accommodation, catering, cultural entertainment, transport, local commerce, among others. Based on the concept of responsible travel, the network thus seeks to contribute to the protection of the environment and respect for the local community and identity, as well as support for the local economy. Distinguished with the European certification of “leading quality trails – best of Europe”, the initiative generated 1,400 jobs; according to the most recent data available, in 2017, it welcomed nearly 24,000 walkers, generating a gross additional value of 8 million euros (about 682 million meticais at the current exchange rate). A clear sign that it is possible to promote the tourism sector in a sustainable way, looking for a fair balance between environmental protection, the development of local communities, and the commercial viability of companies.
▶ HOW TO GO
Travel with Mozambican Airlines on one of the weekly flights offered on the Maputo-Lisbon route. Arriving in the Portuguese capital, we recommend that you choose your own transport to be able to move at your own pace, making the stops you want along the way. To reach the Alentejo coast, cross the Tagus river and continue towards the south, turning to Sines to take the coastal path that will take you from Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes, Almograve or Aljezur.
▶ WHERE TO STAY
The Índico team stayed at Quinta do Chocalhinho, a rural accommodation located in the village of Bemposta, a few kilometers from Odemira. The welcome is warm and the management team guarantees all health and safety conditions compatible with the requirements imposed by the new coronavirus.
▶ WHERE TO EAT
Near Almograve, there is a small town called Longueira, with small restaurants, where sumptuous meals are served, from fresh fish to octopus salad, goose neck barnacles or clams, boiled shrimp, starting with country bread with butter, cheese and olives, all washed down with good Alentejo wine. We recommend a visit to João da Longueira or O Josué.
▶ WHAT TO DO
Starting with nature and ending with gastronomy, the Alentejo coast is an attractive and relatively little explored holiday destination. Even though the objective is to rest, be sure to follow one of the trails marked within the Rota Vicentina. On the website www. rotavicentina.com, you will find a wide range of suggestions for those who appreciate an adventure, or for those who don’t.
Text: Cristiana Pereira, In Portugal
Photo: Vasco Célio
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